Safe amount of nitrous?

Thinking of spraying my my Integra, but I just passed 100k miles on it. Any advise on what to replace/improve before I slap a 50 shot on it?

Engine - B18c5 (typeR)
Mods - AEM CAI, JDM DC Sports Headr w/high-flow cat, Apexi N1 exhaust, B&M FPR, Skunk2 Camgears

any advise would be appreciated

tires and eventually connecting rods

First initial thought would be rings and pistons...also connecting rods.

Rings tend to melt fairly quick, before the piston will. Find out if you have aluminum or steel pistons.

Factory connecting rods are not guarenteed against horsepower boosts....

There is never a safe amount of nitrious, I spray 100 shot in my 97 Camaro on the stock motor I just hit 90,000 before I stored it runs better then ever. Like the others said, a good set of rings, and some forged rods.

What bout heads. Aftermarket or factory?


What else have you got?

Computer set up?

Dialed and tuned?

Extra gauge plug wires?

What bout hightemp plugs?...dont wanna melt the plug tips.

SLP CAI
Trick-Flow Elbow
BBK 52MM TB
LT1 Ported/Polished/Gasket Matched Intake Manifold
Pacesetter Long Tubes
Pacesetter Off Road Y-Pipe
Flowtech 3" Cut-out
Hooker "Cat"-back Exhaust
TransGo Shift Kit (3 Washer)
Energy Suspension Polyurethane Trans Mount.
Energy Suspension Polyurethane Torque Arm Mount.
Holley 255LPH Fuel Pump
MSD 8.5 Superconductor Wires.
MSD Rotor/Cap (When it gets here)
NGK TR55GP Spark Plugs. (One cold rating lower)
Casper Electronics 02 Sims.
Roto Tech Cross Drilled, Slotted, And Vented Rotors.
KEM Ceramic Pads.
Motive 3.73 Gears
Eaton Posi
Moser Axles
Hypertech 160 Thermo
BMR Strut Tower Brace
BMR Boxed Subframe Connectors
BMR Torque Arm
BMR Tailshaft Relocation
BMR LCA's
BMR LCA Relocation Brackets
B&M Trans Cooler
Midwest 3600 Stall w/ Nitrious Balloons
Nitto Drag Radials
MSD 6AL Ignition
MSD Coil
3000-6000 RPM Pills
LT4 Knock Module
NX 50-150 Selectable Wet Kit (100 Jetted)
Custom FLP Tuning. (Local Speed Shop)

1997 Camaro Z28 30th Anv. Edition...
SLP CAI
Trick-Flow Elbow
BBK 52MM TB
LT1 Ported/Polished/Gasket Matched Intake Manifold
Pacesetter Long Tubes
Pacesetter Off Road Y-Pipe
Flowtech 3" Cut-out
Hooker "Cat"-back Exhaust
TransGo Shift Kit (3 Washer)
Energy Suspension Polyurethane Trans Mount.
Energy Suspension Polyurethane Torque Arm Mount.
Holley 255LPH Fuel Pump
MSD 8.5 Superconductor Wires.
MSD Rotor/Cap (When it gets here)
NGK TR55GP Spark Plugs. (One cold rating lower)
Casper Electronics 02 Sims.
Roto Tech Cross Drilled, Slotted, And Vented Rotors.
KEM Ceramic Pads.
Motive 3.73 Gears
Eaton Posi
Moser Axles
Hypertech 160 Thermo
BMR Strut Tower Brace
BMR Boxed Subframe Connectors
BMR Torque Arm
BMR Tailshaft Relocation
BMR LCA's
BMR LCA Relocation Brackets
B&M Trans Cooler
Midwest 3600 Stall w/ Nitrious Balloons
Nitto Drag Radials
MSD 6AL Ignition
MSD Coil
3000-6000 RPM Pills
LT4 Knock Module
NX 50-150 Selectable Wet Kit (100 Jetted)
Custom FLP Tuning. (Local Speed Shop)

~Non-Performance~
Pioneer DEH-P6700MP Head Unit.
Custom 4 Gauge Wiring.
Subthump 12" Drivers Side Stealth Box.
12" Alpine Type-R.
Alpine MRP-M350 Mono Amp.
Euro Lights Hi/Lo Beam Headlight Conversion Kit
Hugger Orange CAMARO fill-ins
GTStyling Taillight Blackouts
Passport 8500 X50 Radar Detector

Not you man, the d0od that started the thread.

Stock ECU. I know I will need to be running colder plugs.

eh how about asking real expert.....this probbley be better in long run.

Your engine will handle a 50 shot without any problems.... Now if 50 isn't enough down the road and you want to go higher, then you may need to look at a few things. Are the pistons hyperpheunmatic? or are they forged? Is you fuel pump able to keep up? and never hit the juice under 3000 rpm's. If I were you I would read the owners manualfor the NOS very carefully and do exactly what it tells you to do. Most likely it will tell you to move the timing, run a cooler plug and to run high octane fuel(91+) but don't run straight airplane fuel or nothin. Well good luck and maybe I'll se ya around omaha. I'm just 35 miles south of you

You can use a microswitch on the throttle body to make sure the only way the NOS can be hit is at wide open throttle....Fuel supply is the main reason for the engine to blow-up....not enough fuel? You can melt the pistons....need to check the fuel pressure once the system is installed to make sure you have enough volume and pressure....a rev limiter might be a good ideal...a hotter coil/ignition system...high flow injectors...ect.......speed costs money....how fast do you want to spend it?

the main reason for engines blowing up is modifying cars that have connecting rods the size of a pencils aka cars that werent built for modifying and therefore should not be modified, and its called fuel injection...its not even possible to richen or lean out a fuel injected motor unless the injectors are fucked

Quote:

Originally posted by JOEMOTH

Fuck talking about cars on this website.
Fuck imports.
And fuck their stupid fart mufflers.

NICE

don't forget to add fairy dust.

if your putting nitrous onto a motor with 100k, the rings will end up having to be done, head gasket, probably a step colder plug, im sure the clutch wont be to happy unless its an upgraded clutch. honda axels are also notorious for snapping under power.

Im a nissan guy now but will be getting an Evo 9 come spring. hit me up if you wanna talk or anything

gotta look at engine size as well. a 50 shot on a rice burner is like a 150 on a small block. think percentages. lots of stress and lots of temptations. it will hang for a while but get to building the replacement now so when it goes you can just swap..... or get a real car. sorry 'bout that, I'm a CHEVY FAN!!!

I gotta '73 Bronco with a 302 in it...I do a 50 shot. Anymore and I need forged pistons and new rings...So, for you I would do the same if you have the money...otherwise atleast get new rings, especially if you have never changed them. I only have 2,000 miles on my engine I just rebuilt it. Connecting rods wouldnt hurt either. But Relative is right, no nitrous is the safest way. I only use mine when it is really really needed. I also drive a 2004 VW Jetta GLI and I would NEVER put nitrous through it...pm me if you have any questions I am always willing to help.

a fully built nitrous motor would be the best bet if he has the money lol, if not then it will have to be rebuilt when it blows up. other option is build the motor and slap a turbo on it. turbo > nitrous any day

make sure you use a pedal switch and dont be retarded and put a button in the car like in the movies more fatal mistakes are made that way. in my trans am i started off with a 50 shot and after a testing and some math im doing a 150 shot witch gives me about 1000 RPM in the traps i ended up in the 6500 rpm range a few times because the engine reved up so fast though.