My soon to be K20a2 powered EG Civic.....

Before I started the build:



I took about 20 measurements because I want her lined p perfectly when put back together:



Xenon lights on the house FTW:



I have build threads on HT, SHO, K20a, and IA with over 700 pictures. I will post more if you guys would like to see more progress.

yeah i'd like to see a work in progress

Quote:

Originally posted by creepus

yeah i'd like to see a work in progress

Ok, I'll post all the pics over the next few days. To get it started.....

Most bolts went back in the thread on the chasis and the rest will be stored like so:



It was tough at times, but I did it all myself. Well, me and buddy Jack....



$hit's dirty/nasty underneath



The car came with this security key thing. Caused me a headache one night last year so it's coming out!!

(Quick story about device) -- Went out of town last year and left the hatch in the employee parking lot at the airport. After riding the work bus back to the car from the terminal, could not find/remember what I did with the key. So, for several minutes I looked through the car in case I hid it and also emptied my luggage to not find it. So, then I had to push the car around the small parking lot and after the 4th time got it to crank by push start. PITA!!! Car is not daily driven so I should not need it. Maybe I'll put it on ebay since I can use every penny for the project.

This is the key that you take when exiting the car:



Not much security when all someone has to do is re-splice the wire. If I were to keep it, I would try to move the splice further back out of the way:



This is inside the box for the device. The ground is NOT grounded (unless I pulled it out when bringing the box down).





All that crap is coming out:



Completion of Day 2:

Here we go Day 3:



Look at all those leaves. That entire system was disgusting!!



Looking better now:



On to the firewall mat. It was a PITA on the drivers side up around the steering column. I got very frustrated because I had to get my hand up in small areas with a razor blade to help cut parts of the mat

Fedex cheered me back up:





Long a$$ extension FTW



After the firewall mat was removed which BTW weighs 8 pounds, I started on the SRS system.

Couldn't "unscrew" the bolts so I drilled them out with my brand new drill:



SRS unit for those who've never seen it. My first time seeing one





Next was the windshield wiper system. Don't plan to drive in the rain and Rain-X works wonders

Just 4 10mm bolts holding it along with a wire harness to disconnect:





Cleaner and of course weight reduction is always good (whine)



Day 3's work:



How she sits after Day 3:

Panel tool really helped out with a lot of the clips:



Handy little mirror allowed me to easily squueze the rear of the clips with angled pliers for an easy removal:



These 2 wires were just tucked in the hole



I ended up cutting that part of the harness since I don't need the 3rd brake light or defroster:



This is what was removed when I made the cut above:



There was no need to cut the driver side defroster harness, so I tucked it back out of the way:



For the gas/trunk lever located inside the door sill remove the (2) 10mm bolts:



With pliers just grab the wire and rotate downward toward the little gap. The wire will just come out:



And the completed rear interior tuck:





I removed the dome light harness.

This is where the dome light wires lead to.
Disconnect and the dome light harness is good to go for reinstall:



Had a little bit of time left, so I took a close look at relocating the fuse box under the dash.

My first time seeing the back side of a fuse box:





A closer look at them:

I always enjoy project pics like this.

Quote:

I ended up cutting that part of the harness since I don't need the 3rd brake light or defroster

So you don't need those for inspection in America?

damn man, I hope you are planning on soupin that thing up big time for that kind of work....I had a civic, but left the inside all together. Hope everything turns out well!!

great choice of car

Thanks guys for the props.

My bro SneezinCD5 is doing the paint. Here is some of his work:

His Accord:







The EK I traded for the EG I have now:





Wettin' her up:

Removing the rubber that surrounds the perimeter of the door was pretty easy. Just need to pull the rubber to one side which then slips off that side of the banana clip. Then back toward the other side and the rubber slides off the banana clip. Repeat 17 or so times:



Banana clip:



Removing the glass:

Remove the (2) 10mm bolts





Carefully angle the forward part of the glass downward and raise the rear to remove the glass:



When removing the molding that runs along the top of the door some clips may remain on the door. Just push as shown and lift off the door:



Prying out that copper colored pin to remove the door handle was a PITA!!! (hang)



Once said and done with removing the moldings and window crank , this is what's left:



Yeah, nasty a$$ glue that is a PITA to remove So, first I try some ice cubes to hopefully make the removal easier:



It worked ok, but not the results I wanted especially with the mess from the melting ice. So, then I took the door out in the 30 degree weather and worked on it there for a few:



Getting better, but still a lot of glue left

On the way back in the house snapped a pic of my DIY neighbors fence. Hope my project turns out better than theirs



Today was time I did the 2nd door:



Didn't want to go back outside to work on the door, ice cubes suck!!! ....so I went to the local grocery store and picked up 4 lbs of dry ice:



This is really a PITA. But, I just keep telling myself it's got to be done so DO IT :P



Ended up crushing it down and feeding the door like a little baby:



Heard some noise from the back of the house. The DIY'ers are back at it and I took notes (on how not to install a fence) for a few minutes:



Here's what I ended up with at the end of the night. I'm hoping the glue that is left will harden over the next few days / week which is much easier to work with than the soft stage:



And my $hithole living room

Session 6:

The Accord was due for an oil change and tire rotation. I knocked that out and thought I'd be ready to get back in the house since it was 40 degrees out. But, the double layer of clothing had me feeling good. So, I put some new gloves on and went to work.....

From this:



To this:



From this:



To this:



Just pinch the clips and the harness came loose:



What was removed today:

Session 7:

My main goal today was to disconnect everything from the motor so I can pull it very shortly and start the cleaning, prepping, and tuck. On to the pics:

Started with this:



Removing the wire harnesses from the metal support brackets:



I took pics of ALL the lines I disconnected so I know what is what:





Coolant drained, clutch line and ground disconnected:



B.A.M.F.B.B.FTW:



3 bolts / 1 nut removed Most likely going to remove the entire exhaust since I am thinking about removing the motor from the bottom:





Looking at where I want to mount the fuse box:



Will water come into the car with that large opening?



Which hole should I use to run my wiring for the tuck?

A = approximately 1 1/4"



B = approximately 1 2/3"


What it looks like at the end of today:

Drained the tranny:



Spent 30+ minutes working on the 2 axle nuts that were dented in from a mad man (other nut was worst)



Damn:



I also read that the metal on the axle nuts is so soft that a strong impact can remove the nuts with the indention intact. So, I'll give it a try next round....

Picked these up today for $20 (going to need them; broke one above is an el cheapo):



Went by Harbor Freight for a few things:

Here we go with Session 9:

Fooled around with these axle nuts for about an hour the other day and still they did not come off. Fired up the air compressor and after 15 seconds had the following results:



Last fluid to be removed:



Time to remove the axles. Castle nut:



Cotter pin on the way out:



Beat on the drivers side but for about 3 minutes with a rubber mallet. Then it clicked in my head that this tool was in my tool box from years back with the old EG. (Still miss you )



Prying the axle out from the tranny:



Time to remove the exhaust:



But, first I took a break:



Back to work and exhaust is out of there:



Removed (2) 12mm bolts and dropped the shift linkage:



Only line left to disconnect:



Disconnected:



Sitting on the Harbor Freight dolly



Farewell to the D series:



Had to make a trip to Wal-Mart when I realized the Harbor Freight engine hoist did not come with chains:



On one wheel



Bent my radiator bracket, but I straightened it out after wards. Got to remove them anyhow to relocate:



Here she is with no heart:



Can someone tell me what I will not need for the K20a2. Want to get the unnecessary things out:



How do I remove this clip? It's holding the clutch line on the firewall:



This is a picture of the hood release cable. How do you remove the clips without damaging them?



Here's what they look like. I was able to remove this one because there was access to rear side. The rest are covered on the backside with sheet metal:



Hood latch removal. Remove (3) 10mm bolts:



Pretty straight forward to remove the cable:



Horn is held on by a 12mm bolt:



How she sits at the end of tonight:

This is the best thread in WBW ever! Fantastic picture diary, I love those. I'm a huge Honda fan myself.

K20 fucking rules! The best engine ever made imho. Is it JDM spec? I know couple sites which sells DC5 and EP3 engines straight from Japan. The SI version in USA is quite shitty.

Edit : I totally missed the A2 in your title. So it's the EDM version, that's awesome engine. You can get 260hp from it with simple mods. Fucking great.

wow looks like work to me but keep posting this is interesting. can't wait to see finished project

Thanks guys for the props. Yeah, she is going to a major transformation. I still have over 500 pictures to post, lol. Yeah, K series FTW!

Here we go with Session 10:

Since my balljoints are screwed I decided to get inside and work on the wiring. I want to start prepping for the interior paint.

Started with this:





First I removed the radio antenna since my hatch has a giga mp3 player



Then it was time to remove the clips that hold the fuel pump, optional rear speakers, and seat belt warning wires. Never did figure out how to properly remove them, but the panel tool got them out (some in pieces):



I'm actually just going to hide the seat belt warning when I reloom the wiring inside. I put the seat belt on without thinking so I don't need the indicator on the cluster.



4 screws hold the fuel pump cover:



Once removed disconnect the 2 harnesses:



Using the butt end of a screwdriver push the grommet out:



It started raining so I put some dirty parts outside for a free wash:



Washer screwed on the seat belt. Don't plan to use them again so it's all good:



Onto the parking brake. Pretty straight forward to remove:



I'm a picture whore so here is a close-up of the e-brake indicator wire:





At each end is tape that you can slit:



Then you split 'er open:



Once you remove both harness covers you'll have some red clips left behind. The panel tool pulled these out without damaging them (yeah the ones I won't need)



Got to remove the rest of the center console:



Disgusting ECU holder. I'll have to clean that up if I am to reuse it:



Reminder to get some more dry ice:



Got to see about removing the right stalk since I won't have a wiper system:



Bag of gold:



The gold:



About ready to sand for paint. Still got to get the glue on the floorboard up:





I couldn't work in the back area of the car because the rain was blowing into the garage. Shouldn't take too long to remove the rear hatch wiring:



Thanks again for looking

My bro spraying my old EK:

Wettin' her up:

My first K series part

Order placed on Wednesday, shifter kit plate at the door Saturday



Quality / Craftsmanship is top notch:



Today was 70+ degrees and not a cloud in the sky. So I spent some time in the garage I removed the GC/Koni's from the rear and installed the OEM suspension. Once the suspension was installed I rolled her outside:



Time to start removing $hit so I can start prepping for paint

Charcoal canister OUT:



To bring the wire harness back into the car you'll need to remove the grommet by pushing or pulling it from the hole:



Everything fit through the hole to get back into the cabin:



Most likely going to remove this dead weight and rewrap the harness:



Push the drivers side grommet into the cabin and reel the harness in:



Back of the EGR valves:



I had no intention of removing the brake lines, but after easily breaking the first line.... there was no turning back:



Removing the master cylinder:



I need to figure out how to remove these lines that go to the rear of the car:



How she sits at the end of today:



What I removed today (yes the brake lines are labled to where they go)

This is what I will be using to keep the metal edges from touching any wiring:



It's called chicken run and comes in 12" pieces. You can see the entire piece(s) sitting on top of the heat shrink from Harbor Freight. The crank pulley tool, chicken run, and scotch pads were picked up from other places (the rest Harbor Freight).



I think I found the solution to door glue removal. Turned out this wheel did not do $hit